Okay. When I started my blog I thought it would be a good way to share information with many people at home. I thought it would be easier on both parts, mine and yours. However, I have just realized that my blog is probably creating more questions than it is answering (based on the emails that I get). Thus, I present to you, FAQ on life in Moldova part two. Enjoy, or as we say in Moldova, Poftim!
-----------
How are you doing?Good.
Are you seriously staying there for 2 more years?I’m going to try my hardest to. I still don’t feel like I am really having the “Peace Corps Experience,” as I am still learning the language and getting to know my community—who knows what next year, or even next month, will bring—when I am an informed and knowledgeable member of the community! Expect to “do lunch” with me sometime in November or December of 2008. And it’s not 2 more years exactly, it is more like 22 more months!
How’s the weather?Unseasonably warm, but still pretty cold and miserable (reference: upstate new york winter gray). Sometimes I thank God for the strange winter we are having (it only snowed about 1 inch in total), because it gives me a simple, yet important topic, to discuss with Moldovans. I know weather vocabulary, and it is a very safe topic for me to be discussing because as an Agrarian society, the weather has more than just an effect of people’s moods here. People worry about the ground, the plants, etc. Even without the snow, it’s still cold because the heating in the buildings isn’t sufficient—for example, an apartment might be heated, but the hallway and stairs aren’t—making for some brisk walks in the freezing cold. Good thing I learned to layer when I was young.
So… what are you actually DOING in Moldova?Right now, a bit of everything. I am going into my center 3 days a week. There I work with the kids on their lessons, teach art classes once a week, and have been slowly making my rounds with the professors asking what they think our organization’s needs are. The other two days I mix it up and have Romanian lessons, walk around the community (just to be seen), coach basketball two days a week, visit the “Casa de Creatie” one afternoon a week (like an art school) and talk to the kids there, visit other organizations in the community and introduce myself, work one day a week with a woman who is in charge of “social work projects” for my raion (county), and do things with my host family. I am also in the process of starting a Volunteering Club at the high school.
In terms of larger Peace Corps projects, this summer I will be one of the co-directors of GLOW camp (GLOW stands for Girl’s Leading Our World). Those of you who know how much I love camp, will know how great a fit this job is for me. I’m really excited about it, although it will be a lot of work to plan, find funds for and implement.
Other than that, I’m keeping myself busy (as you can see). And not teaching English. Quite an achievement in a community where most people think I came here to teach English.
You always use the word counterpart. What does that mean?Sorry if I throw that word, and other PC-jargon around without explanation. I try not to. A counterpart is essentially your partner. This person is a Moldovan and lives in the community that you live in. They usually work for a specific NGO, which is the case with me—my counterpart is the director of my youth center—or they are a Mayor or Teacher active in the community. Their role is to help you help the community. They are supposed to introduce you to people, show you around, and work with you on any projects you may undertake. Basically a counterpart is a partner and support system.
This is not always the case though. More often, the above description is more as it should be than as it actually is. As for me, my counterpart is strangely always “busy”—but God knows with what. I have spent maybe a total of 8 hours with her in the past 2.5 months, and this is not a good thing. I suspect a case of absentee-land lordship here. However, it doesn’t help the matter that besides being absent, she also tries to control what I am doing through phone calls, and changing what I am saying when I do see her (talk about circular conversations). It’s hard for me to combat with my limited vocabulary, and my need to think before I speak Romanian. As for now, unfortunately, my counterpart is my single greatest point of stress here, and she knows it—and constantly is apologizing over the phone, but not changing -- and I’m currently looking for better ways to work with her, or without her even.
What is a typical day like for you?Sorry to go with the Peace Corpsy answer on this one, but I have no typical day. I just have to be flexible. Usually I make some oatmeal in the morning (that remains common to almost every day). My host mother thinks it’s weird that I mash bananas in my oatmeal. But I love it! Then, from there—I have no typical day. Things change. There are saints days that close schools unbeknownst to me, teachers cancel classes, people have other occupations to do besides NGO work, its too muddy for the busses to run, I have to go to PC headquarters for a training. Everyday changes, usually everyday I walk a lot, but oatmeal is definitely an everyday thing!
What is the strangest thing you have seen in Moldova?In Moldova, I can’t quite answer this question yet. But I have seen some strange things FOR MOLODVA. Ie, things that were strange in terms of Moldova. This past month, when all the volunteers were there for training, I experienced two strange things—one in terms of America and the other in terms of Moldova. The thing that struck me the strangest in general, was when they had a little “Christmas village” set up in the capital. There were lights and a tree and of course a santa. But the santa was smoking a cigarette. No joke. And no one seemed to care. OYE! And secondly, when I was walking through Chisinau I saw someone walking a dog on a leash. This is the very first leash I have seen in Moldova. Who knew!? Maybe it was because we were in the capital and it tries to be a little posh-European when it can.
Is the Peace Corps what you expected?Yes and no. No and yes. Give me time for this one.
Do you miss me?Of course.
Besides me, what do you miss the most from home? Besides people, I really miss coke slurpees (obviously), my bed, drinking water with ice (and water that I do not have to boil/filter/or distil—and out of the tap too!), reduced-fat oreos (I was addicted this summer!), LETTUCE and spinach (sometimes cabbage just doesn’t cut it) and the ability to choose my own style of dress without fearing being stared at because my jeans are outside my boots instead of inside.
What is your favorite acronym?Scuba. Definitely
What is the question Moldovans ask you the most—and how do you respond?“Do you like it here?” and “Where is it better- Here or in America” followed by, “so, why are you here?” How do I respond? Usually, I try to be funny and say “No, I don’t like it here- you don’t have any snow!!!” And they laugh. But when I need to be more serious, I tell them I’ll get back to them when I experience more of Moldova. As a con, I usually say I miss my home and my family. But as a pro, I am always a fan of raving about how good the fresh fruit and veggies are here. Because they are, oh so delicious! And I say people in American aren’t as friendly to strangers. Which probably is true.
Do you have any friends in Moldova?Yes. I have many friends. The 6 year olds who own a sled and live on my street. The old lady who sells sunflower seeds at the Piata. The girls I coach in basketball. And the lady who owns a flower shop (she was impressed with pictures of our flowershop in NJ).
Friends my own age, you ask? Well considering most of them are married, have left the country for work, or are having babies—I have yet to find anyone. But don’t worry, until then, the high schoolers provide me with much needed entertainment.
Are you doing a good job of representing American Culture? Or are you sharing “Sharon-culture?”Of course I am sharing American culture, especially the parts that I like, like Halloween, pajamas, games, etc. No seriously, I told people that in America, college students sometimes wear sweat pants to class, and sometimes even pajamas and they were appalled. We aren’t allowed to really be “political” here, so when people bring up Bush and the war in Iraq, I just say “e griu”, meaning, “it’s hard/bad.” Some kids also told me they heard that in America, when kids turn 18, parents kick them out of their houses. And if kids decide to visit home for the holidays, they get a bill for all the food they eat. I set them straight on that one, and have talked a lot about independence and finding a balance between family and independence (and how it is possibly easier in America because we can travel and communicate easier). Also, I have been talking a lot about volunteering and social responsibility which doesn’t seem to exist as a concept here. They don’t have a verb for “to volunteer.” Maybe this is because it is a communal society, and extended extended families tend to stick together more. I don’ know. Hopefully I will talk more about this in my volunteering club.
What is a sitemate?Sometimes two Peace Corps volunteers (or more) are assigned to the same village. If there is more than one organization there that needs help. For the most part, these volunteers are of different programs—one could be an English teacher, one an agricultural volunteer etc. I have a site mate, Mike, who is an agricultural volunteer.
What do you eat there?Lots of yummy yummy food. Seriously, the food here is very hearty and very fresh and natural. I really like that. I eat a lot of chicken, vegetables and traditional dishes such as mamaliga (like corn meal), coltunash (dumplings), borsh and zeama (soups), etc. Also they make placinta (kind of like mini-pies). And to top it all off, we eat a lot of bread. A lot, a lot of bread. Seriously wonderbread doesn’t hold a candle to the fresh-baked bread I get around the corner. But sometimes I feel that Moldovans use bread as Americans use Peanutbutter—all the time and for every occasion! Other than that, my host mother thinks I don’t eat enough. But when she brings home chocolate, she realizes that I eat just fine.
What’s the Moldovan money situation?The Moldovan currency is called lei. One dollar is equal to 13 lei, depending on what Bush is doing around the world to affect the price of the dollar. To give you an idea of some of my expenses:
55 lei buys a lunch sized meal in a restaurant in the capital
40 lei buys my bus trip from my site to the capital (where PC Office is—it is a 2 hour bus ride)
25 lei buys an illegal copy of "Windows" at the piata
12 lei buys a bottle of water
10 lei buys a large, delicious dark chocolate candy bar
9 lei buys a McDonald’s “Value Menu Item” – equivalent to the dollar menu, I think
8 kei buys a bottle of ketchup, with added iron flavor
5 lei is the cost to send a letter to the good old US of A
3 lei buys a loaf of bread
2 lei buys a bottle of vinegar
1 leu buys a bag of sunflower seeds
Peace Corps gives us the money we need to pay for food, for bus fairs where they exist, and to pay our host family the rent for our rooms. I still don’t know what an average salary is for a Moldovan, so I really can’t compare it in that regards. But hopefully I will find out soon.
What is your least favorite aspect of the culture?By far, the food pushing. I hate being forced to eat or drink, and I especially dislike it here—because I don’t have the confidence in my language to both politely and sternly refuse. I understand their intentions are good – they want to make sure I feel welcome to take as much food as I need, and they want to make sure that I, as a foreigner who knows little about Moldovan food and culture etc, do not go to bed hungry. But, it is one thing I could definitely do without! Especially because it exists both when I am invited to meals or parties, AND when I am at home—there is nothing that will unnerve your day more than having a stressful meal time at home!
Do people know you are an American, before you even speak?In general, no. But they know I'm not Moldovan. It must be the clothes. People have thought I was from (besides America) England, Australia, Mexico, South America and Romania (the Romania one comes in after people here me talk-- they hear Romanian, but not with the Moldovan dialect, so they assume Romania). Also people have thought I'm a Roma, or gypsy. The South American countries are brought up becuase of my hair, apparently.
When are you going to post more pictures?Soon. Maybe in a month or so when I have time to go into the capital to use the computer. Loading pictures on dial up is not my idea of fun.
Do you have an interesting antidote or experience for us? It’s been a while. Yes, okay. I admit my enthusiasm and energy for posts has been waning (as has my access to the internet), however, I always have something to share. Here is my new observation for this week:
It is taking me longer and longer to walk to work. And no, not because I am getting lost all the time. But what once was a 40 minute walk, is now an hour or an hour and 15 minutes. Why, you ask, if it isn’t due to my notoriously bad directional sense? Well, because people are getting used to me, and not in a way that makes them ignore me, but in a way that makes them approach me. I have been in this community close to 2.5 months and people are starting to realize that I am here to stay. So they approach me, and ask me who I am, why I am in Moldova, why my coat is green and where I am going. Such important matters like that. One man stopped me last week and said to me “I see you walk past my house every day. Why?”. While questions of this nature seem intrusive in America, in Moldova, it is all part of being friendly to your neighbors. For now, I’m relishing in the fact that more people are talking to me (it was hard at first because my town has more of an attitude of a city—its bigger than small villages and not everyone knows each other), and I will plan more time to get to and from work!
Addition to this story: After I wrote this, I saw the same man who stopped me last week, this time I saw him in our park. He grabbed my coat (not in a violent way, people here just tend to want to be holding you when they talk to you ) and said, “I don’t understand! What are you doing here! You changed your route!” In fact, I had changed my route and had decided to go to the piata in the middle of the day to buy some fruit. And this, my friends, is living in a fishbowl.
So, do you like, hate the post office?No, I don’t. I really believe that my local post office is not the culprit of the stealing, although their disorganization is the culprit of the long lines, cutting and disgruntledness (yes that is a word) that exists in the Post Office lobby. The staff there try to help me, and when there are less people there, they can. But when it is crowded—they really don’t have the time or patience to spell things out (or make exceptions for something I didn’t understand). I think the best bet in dealing with mail is to be proactive, especially with packages. Hiding things (just make sure the boxes match in weight—ie if you put cds into a gushers box for example), using lengthier descriptor words for the customs form , and writing in red ink, for example are the best way to handle the post office. And remember while I am frustrated with the post office, I still do love mail!
How often do you seen other Peace Corps Volunteers?Tricky question. Not often. When you go into the capital, you are bound to run into a bunch of them, especially on the weekend. (sometimes some places in the capital, like this one Syrian restaurant … okay it is KIND OF Syrian, no tatie cooking… anyway, at those kinds of places sometimes it seems like Moldova is SWARMING with PCV’s. But at my site, I only see Mike, my site mate, about once a week.
Come on, seriously—2 more years!?Seriously. Just wait until I know the language, have met people in the community, and am more set in my life here. Then the productivity (and stories!) will really flow. Until then. Peace.
