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Where is Moldova, anyway?

Musings on my Peace Corps experience in this small, Eastern European, Republic.
 

11 Things

Here is a list of eleven things I do better now, after spending a year and a half in Moldova, than I did when I first joined the Peace Corps.

1) Wear Clothes Properly- Yes, it is safe to say that I have worn clothes every single day of my life. But never before have I been under so much scrutiny -- my jacket isn't all the way buttoned, or my shoes are muddy, or my jeans have a rip in them -- why didn't anyone in America teach me how to dress properly? It's a fishbowl here. Guess who is the fish? I wouldn't dare wear my pajamas out. That is how much importance is put on how you dress here in Moldova. And you guys know how much I love to wear pajamas. The extra long pants don't cut it either -- get them hemmed! Now that I do my laundry by hand, I am more careful of not dragging my pants in the mud, or sitting on the ground -- things I wouldn't think twice about when I wasn't my own washing machine.

2) Panic in Romanian - It wasn't until 6 months ago that I realized I was doing this. Before that, when I got emotional, my Romanian would stop flowing. I would switch to English. I couldn't ask for help in Romanian, and when I got emotional, my words became choppy. Now, I can panic in Romanian. Tell people I'm lost. That I lost my wallet. Or that I need help. My host mom even caught me talking to myself in Romanian (after I had dropped my clean laundry and the wind was taking it away).

3) Bucket Bathe - Ask my host mom about this one. When I first started to "shower" with my bucket full of water, the bathroom would be sopping wet when I was done. It's hard to contain the splashing over a 3 foot wide bucket, especially when you are used to the roomy luxury of a shower curtain. Also, I used to "finish" bathing with my hair still shampooy- becuase I couldn't figure out how to rinse it all out over the bucket. Now, I still get the floor wet, but I am much more careful not to flick my wet hair across the room and cause a flood. Practice makes perfect.

4) Cook - That's right. I cook now. And bake too (don't worry I still burn my share of things!) Pasta sauce. Stir-fry. Breads. Stuffed grape leaves. Tortilla shells. Polenta. Soup. Cakes from scratch (Cake off coming to River Vale when I get home, Sean!!).

Who knew that the peanut butter, cold cuts and mac-and-cheese in a box girl could cook? It's amazing what some time on your hands, fresh ingredients, a desire for a varied menu - ie something besides cabbage and potatoes, and a host mother who thinks you need to know how to cook to get married, can do to you. Transformation is possible people. Deprive yourself of a microwave and you will see what I mean.

5) Fend off "wild" animals - Chickens, turkeys, cows, and stray dogs all stand between me and my work, every single day. Nalgene bottles come in handy when poultry attacks. Rocks when the stray dogs get too aggressive. The cattle, I've just learned to walk around...

6) Switch languages mid-sentence/thought - I used to get confused or panicked when people blended Russian and Romanian... now, it is just the norm, or as we call it the "Moldovan language". Russian, Romanian and English in one sentence, no problem!

7) Sleep through racket - the roosters, my host mother getting things out of my room, dogs barking throughout the night, neighborhood kids running around, the roosters again. Roll over and tune it out.

8) Have thick skin - When someone tells you that Americans are bad. Or you shouldn't eat this or that. Or that you dress weird. You don't know this or that. Or they refuse to answer your questions. Or refuse to help you at a store. Or that Moldovan women are prettier, and more hard working. Or that Americans are rich (How much salary do you receive? How much does this cost in America?) Personal, intrusive, or misinformed -- Just let it go, and move on. It's the best defense.

9) Deal with public transportation - The bus is supposed to show up and it doesn't. The driver lies to me about where he is taking me. The bus is so full that you don't worry about not having a seat, or a seatbelt becuase you are so wedged in there that you will not go anywhere even if the van crashes. The bus makes an unscheduled stop so the passengers can smoke. Buses refuse to go into my village so I have to hitch hike, or walk (45 minute walks are becoming the norm). You get stopped by the police, and have to quickly pass back "tickets" to make the transportation look "official". A chicken is sitting next to you on the bus. All normal, everyday occurrences. NJ transit is looking better and better...

10) Explain what I am doing here. No, I don't teach English. No, I'm not married to a Moldovan. No, I'm not a missionary. No, I'm not working. And no, I have no family here. I am working with youth development, encouraging them to be leaders in their community, and participating in a cultural exchange between Moldova and America. Period. End of purpose statement.

11) Not let the chickens escape. Everyday, without fail, I would go to feed our chickens or give them water, and end up chasing them around the yard. Now, they stay in their place. I feel accomplished, as I balance a water jug, and close the gate with my food.
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