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Where is Moldova, anyway?

Musings on my Peace Corps experience in this small, Eastern European, Republic.
 

In like a lion...

Monday, March 31, 2008

out like a lion!?

I tell you, I will not be sorry to see March go. From the blizzard-like white outs that began the month of March, to the freak hit-and-run snow storms that filled last week (going from clear blue skies to falling flakes in 10 seconds), to the hail that fell today, clobbering me literally and figuratively.

Yes, Moldova needs the rain. Especially after last year, the drought that lasted all summer really did a number on this agricultural country. I hope the buds (who are probably as confused as I am with this recent weather pattern) last through this freakish March weather.

Where's my lamb-weather? Here's hoping for a lamb-like April. In the mean time, the mud and I are going to continue getting better acquainted.

101!

Sunday, March 30, 2008

I just realized. That last post was my 100th. Thus I am celebrating with a superfluous post. Happy 101st!

Why I love Moldovan Teenagers



Over the course of the last two months, the kids in my village's youth council have been putting on an intellectual game they invented called "Harta Europei" or in English, "Map of Europe." It's actually a fairly simple trivia game, pulling questions from all different areas (history, geography, chemistry, pop culture, politics, odds and ends, potent potables etc). However, they added a risk-ish aspect to the trivia contest by having teams (3) compete to conquer Europe. Essentially, each right answer allows them to color in a country in Europe with their team's colors. You can also "attack" other team's countries (which area already colored in) by challenging them to a trivia duel.

Anyway, it has been really fun -- and we invited teams from neighboring villages to come and compete. We represented our village very well as hosts -- with 250 well researched trivia facts, and 3 lightbulb/battery/doorbell rigged buzzers (Thanks Dr. Hadad, high school physics is finally paying off!).

Today was the last contest in the "semi-final" round. And it ended up being a three-way tie, with each team having 10 countries and no more questions left. As the American, and thus the oddball (seriously the trivia questions I think are hard, they all memorized the answers to when they were 12. The ones they think are hard... who wrote the declaration of independence), I was asked to pull out a random, hard trivia question.

The question I chose, knocked out all of the teams -- thus it wasn't that great of a tie breaker, after all.

The question: Name the four members of the Beatles.

The answers: "John Lennon, Elton John, Paul McCartney and Ringo Star", "We don't know", and "weren't there only 3"



Apparently, the British Invasion never made it to Moldova. Thankfully, the MTV one did.

These boots are made for walking

Friday, March 21, 2008

Today I marveled, yet again, about the unique strength of young Moldovan women.

Walking home, my feet were killing me. Yes, it is a walk I do at least twice a day (40 minutes each way), and a walk I have gotten used to, and a walk that I use to clear my head. But sometimes I just can't do it. My feet, in my outdoorsy and cushioned merrils (which my host mom refers to as "the boy shoes," hurt too much.

So I sat down, not sure if I would wait for the unreliable-once-an-hour-if-it-isn't-a-saint-day-or-someone's-birthday local bus, or just take a break before continuing home. I sat and people watched for 30 minutes. Out of the 32 females who walked by me (no, it's not a busy place but we only have one street people), 24 were wearing some sort of high heeled shoe -- inclusive of high heels, fancy high heels, boots, and really high boots (what we would refer to as hooker boots). You know, the kind of footwear that looks really elegant, but must have been invented by someone who hates feet.

Of those not wearing a height-enhancing shoe, 3 were younger than 12 years old, 1 was an infant being carried by her father, and 4 were older babas wearing house slippers.

I am already aware of the value Moldovans place on having fancy, and well kept shoes. But, living in a place where you walk everywhere seems like it would lend one towards wanting comfortable shoes, in my opinion. On the contrary, every woman who walked past me tonight (with the exception of the very old and very young), chose the cultural appeal and image appeal (I know, pain = beauty), over comfort. (editor's note: I know that my sample tactic is full of errors, and either is or is not representative of the population as a whole). Either that, or they have very very strong feet, and it's not that big of a deal. But as far as I'm concerned, those boots are not made for walking... they are made for riding, in a car, for standing still, entering parties, and then promptly discarding under a table while you dance. How's that for culture.

11 Things

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Here is a list of eleven things I do better now, after spending a year and a half in Moldova, than I did when I first joined the Peace Corps.

1) Wear Clothes Properly- Yes, it is safe to say that I have worn clothes every single day of my life. But never before have I been under so much scrutiny -- my jacket isn't all the way buttoned, or my shoes are muddy, or my jeans have a rip in them -- why didn't anyone in America teach me how to dress properly? It's a fishbowl here. Guess who is the fish? I wouldn't dare wear my pajamas out. That is how much importance is put on how you dress here in Moldova. And you guys know how much I love to wear pajamas. The extra long pants don't cut it either -- get them hemmed! Now that I do my laundry by hand, I am more careful of not dragging my pants in the mud, or sitting on the ground -- things I wouldn't think twice about when I wasn't my own washing machine.

2) Panic in Romanian - It wasn't until 6 months ago that I realized I was doing this. Before that, when I got emotional, my Romanian would stop flowing. I would switch to English. I couldn't ask for help in Romanian, and when I got emotional, my words became choppy. Now, I can panic in Romanian. Tell people I'm lost. That I lost my wallet. Or that I need help. My host mom even caught me talking to myself in Romanian (after I had dropped my clean laundry and the wind was taking it away).

3) Bucket Bathe - Ask my host mom about this one. When I first started to "shower" with my bucket full of water, the bathroom would be sopping wet when I was done. It's hard to contain the splashing over a 3 foot wide bucket, especially when you are used to the roomy luxury of a shower curtain. Also, I used to "finish" bathing with my hair still shampooy- becuase I couldn't figure out how to rinse it all out over the bucket. Now, I still get the floor wet, but I am much more careful not to flick my wet hair across the room and cause a flood. Practice makes perfect.

4) Cook - That's right. I cook now. And bake too (don't worry I still burn my share of things!) Pasta sauce. Stir-fry. Breads. Stuffed grape leaves. Tortilla shells. Polenta. Soup. Cakes from scratch (Cake off coming to River Vale when I get home, Sean!!).

Who knew that the peanut butter, cold cuts and mac-and-cheese in a box girl could cook? It's amazing what some time on your hands, fresh ingredients, a desire for a varied menu - ie something besides cabbage and potatoes, and a host mother who thinks you need to know how to cook to get married, can do to you. Transformation is possible people. Deprive yourself of a microwave and you will see what I mean.

5) Fend off "wild" animals - Chickens, turkeys, cows, and stray dogs all stand between me and my work, every single day. Nalgene bottles come in handy when poultry attacks. Rocks when the stray dogs get too aggressive. The cattle, I've just learned to walk around...

6) Switch languages mid-sentence/thought - I used to get confused or panicked when people blended Russian and Romanian... now, it is just the norm, or as we call it the "Moldovan language". Russian, Romanian and English in one sentence, no problem!

7) Sleep through racket - the roosters, my host mother getting things out of my room, dogs barking throughout the night, neighborhood kids running around, the roosters again. Roll over and tune it out.

8) Have thick skin - When someone tells you that Americans are bad. Or you shouldn't eat this or that. Or that you dress weird. You don't know this or that. Or they refuse to answer your questions. Or refuse to help you at a store. Or that Moldovan women are prettier, and more hard working. Or that Americans are rich (How much salary do you receive? How much does this cost in America?) Personal, intrusive, or misinformed -- Just let it go, and move on. It's the best defense.

9) Deal with public transportation - The bus is supposed to show up and it doesn't. The driver lies to me about where he is taking me. The bus is so full that you don't worry about not having a seat, or a seatbelt becuase you are so wedged in there that you will not go anywhere even if the van crashes. The bus makes an unscheduled stop so the passengers can smoke. Buses refuse to go into my village so I have to hitch hike, or walk (45 minute walks are becoming the norm). You get stopped by the police, and have to quickly pass back "tickets" to make the transportation look "official". A chicken is sitting next to you on the bus. All normal, everyday occurrences. NJ transit is looking better and better...

10) Explain what I am doing here. No, I don't teach English. No, I'm not married to a Moldovan. No, I'm not a missionary. No, I'm not working. And no, I have no family here. I am working with youth development, encouraging them to be leaders in their community, and participating in a cultural exchange between Moldova and America. Period. End of purpose statement.

11) Not let the chickens escape. Everyday, without fail, I would go to feed our chickens or give them water, and end up chasing them around the yard. Now, they stay in their place. I feel accomplished, as I balance a water jug, and close the gate with my food.

Happy Women's Day!

Saturday, March 08, 2008

If you are reading this in America, you may not be aware that today, March 8th, is International Women's Day.

Last year, I was unprepared for this holiday -- having never participated in it before. We (the Peace Corps Volunteers who came to Moldova at the same time that I did) were in Chisinau, the capital, for a training session, and when the training was over, we tried to grab a bite to eat. Little did we know how big this holiday was. Restaurants laughed at us when we showed up asking for a table. After wandering around for about an hour, and feeling very rejected, we ended up eating at McDonalds.

Now we know, trying to eat out on Women's Day is like trying to walk into a restaurant on New Year's Eve. Women's Day here can best be described as a cross between Valentine's Day and Mother's Day. People give flowers, eat big meals (that the women cook, of course), give chocolate, bring cake, and say "Congratulations for being a woman" to you on the street. (This was a new thing for me this morning when I hadn't brushed my hair yet, but was greeted many times on the street, and kissed on my unscrubbed cheeks, while waiting for the bus from the city to drop off a package for my host mother).

Anyway. I'm going to continue celebrating, now bathed. But I wanted to say Happy Women's Day to all you women out there.

Part 2
11pm, Moldova:
Women's day is now over. I can officially say that I have eaten more today than any other day I have been in Moldova -- (notice, I don't even use American Thanksgiving as a day to eat a lot as a comparison before -- ) Moldovan celebrations have us beat by a long margin. This is what happens when you have to eat at every place you go to. They have a verb for it in Romanian, this is what you do on celebrations -- you go visiting. 1 hour here, 2 hours here, 45 minutes here. Everyone makes food, and you eat at every house. I came home very full, and a little tipsy -- a glass of wine at everyone's house really adds up, especially if you are an AMERICAN and people are trying really hard to include you today becuase it is an INTERNATIONAL celebration, a celebration you would feel at home with, they conclude.

Too bad we don't celebrate this day in America (at least I don't think we do -- or rather I never did). But my neighbor tells me it started in Chicago. Either way it was a very sweet holiday. The men give you flowers and chocolate and well wishes , and the women prepare the food and everyone feasts.

An interesting point that kept coming up all day was that there is no "official" Men's Day in the world. But Moldovans celebrate it on February 23rd -- "red army day" or "USSR Army Day". Moldovans, they claim, celebrate the most, and for any occasion.

After the celebrations for the 1st of March (Beginning of spring) and then this week another 3 days for Women's Day (including preparations) I am beginning to see their point...

Any/Every Day in Moldova

Monday, March 03, 2008


Since we are a "town" and not a village, officially, we have trash cans along our main street. So instead of burning trash on the street, we can burn it in the cans... // This is an abandoned building from Soviet times... by the look of the emblem, it seems to have been a flight school.



Just one of those things, steps leading nowhere. // Winter veggies at the piata. Summertime looks both more colorful and more appealing...



Look out for trucks, and horse carriages. // the view from my front door.



A neighbor's outhouse gears up to bare the coming storm // Soviet war monument.



Soviet emblem on a public building. // A neighbor's gate. I call it my "almost home gate" -- when I see the purple, I know I only have 10 more minutes of walking to go.



Statue of the guy our village used to be named after. Today, the people who speak Russian, still call my village by it's old name, his name. // Potatoes at the Piata. Can't wait for fresh veggies...



My host mom lighting our soba in a daily effort to keep from freezing. // the street where I live.



Modern and Old together. A main Moldovan street with both cars and horse drawn carriages is not a rare site. // spices at our piata.



More winter piata scenes. // A cool well.


Great news



Our youth center is fully funded!

This is a big thank you to all of you out there who donated to our Peace Corps Participatory Project (PCPP) -- "Room(s) to Grow"-- which will create a Center for Youth Volunteering and Activism in our village -- one of the first of its kind to exist in Moldova, outside of the major cities. Whether you contributed 1 dollar or 100 dollars, you helped us more than you know it, and we thank you.

We are set to break ground at the end of March. The youth are all excited, our mayor is excited, I am excited, my counterpart is excited. Basically, there is excitement. I will definitely be updating you with pictures and reports of the construction. Now that the money is here, the hard part can actually begin... (coordinating construction in another language, anyone?)

In the mean time, I want to thank all of you who donated who don't know me -- who either read this blog and donated, or found the link through peace corps and donated -- your generosity is appreciated. But I especially want to thank my family and friends, you know who you are, who supported this project and are amazing. And another grande Thank you to the AHA community and the Returned Peace Corps Volunteers of NJ.

Thank you! Multumim! Спасибо!

Russian Elections



When I was traveling in Greece this summer, an Australian roommate of mine at a hostel complained that "Americans don't know anything about the rest of the world" Trying to dissuade her from this opinion, I wowed her with my extensive knowledge of current events. "Those are events, headline stories," she replied, "Who is Australia's President?" Blank stare. "You should know him, he follows Bush around like a puppy..." Blank stare again. Australia's president's name was no where even close to the tip of my tongue.

Everyone, however, knows the US president. Everyone, it seems, cares about our elections. Yes, the US president is generally seen as one of the most powerful people in the world, so maybe he or she merits being known... Or maybe the media has something to do with it.

Your average American could probably tell you the leader of England, France, maybe come somewhere close to the president of Mexico, the prime minister of Canada? That might be a stretch (Note: I don't know who the Prime Minister of Canada is, and I am resisting the temptation to google it for the purpose of this blog. I will do so after the fact).

When I first arrived in Moldova, many people asked me if I knew the president of Moldova. The first time it happened, and my Romanian was good enough to understand the question, I didn't know the answer. How embarrassing (It's Vladimir Voronin by the way... if you are ever interrogated by any Moldovans on the street in your town).

People in Moldova know about Bush. "Ce face Bush?" or "Cum cu Bush?" were questions I was and am frequently asked. (What is Bush doing or How is he doing). Besides America, Moldovans in general are also knowledgeable about the political happenings and elections in Russia, Romanian and Ukraine. One could argue that countries in this part of the world are smaller, closer together and therefore more interconnected, and that you have to pay attention to what goes on next door, or you could argue that Americans isolate themselves more than just geographically...

While most of the world is already caught up in the America-Votes-2008-Fever, part of the world -- the part of the world I am now living in -- has been focusing on another big-gun election -- Russia's, which took place yesterday. While there wasn't as much hoop-lah leading up to the election (it was pretty clear to everyone, it seems, who would win), for the past two days our television channels (2) have been broadcasting only about the elections in Russia.

I guess I just wanted to share this perspective. Many countries are directly affected by the president of the US, but don't have the right to elect him or her. Sometimes I think we forget we are the only "big guy" out there. Moldova is directly affected by the president of Russia, but doesn't have the right to elect him or her either.

From what I have seen, more attention was paid by my host family to the elections in Russia than the local elections here this summer. People voting in a different time zone, were seen to have a bigger affect on us here in Moldova, than people living 2km away. My host mom says that is because "something might actually come from the Russians", whereas our mayor "won't do anything." Also, Moldovans not too long ago were under Russian rule, or sorry, the rule of the USSR... it shouldn't surprise me that my host mother, who grew up during the USSR, looks to Russia as the political leader of our world...

I don't have a conclusion. But I will be thankful when the tv stops broadcasting Russian political rallies, which my host mother always calls me into the room to watch... so that I can go back to my regular schedule of not watching television.
 
   





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